WTB Holden Gemini Trimatic in Melbourne only

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dat
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WTB Holden Gemini Trimatic in Melbourne only

Post by dat »

Hello Fellas,
First post for me and please dont bag me for wanting
what nobody else wants in their gemini because its a daggy
:( slush box.
Needs to be a good automatic 3 speed trimatic not a slippery traumatic,
so must be in good condition for sale in Melbourne.
Also auto gearshift console if avail.
kind regards, Diego.

Pm me your landline and Ill call you back on one as I cant stand mobiles cause after 14 years of usage they now give me huge migraines :oops:
Last edited by dat on Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mattyskeese
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Post by Mattyskeese »

Try Ace Auto Salvage in Thomastown.
Slippery when dry.
PF60 Kev
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Post by PF60 Kev »

I have one which was *apparantly* reconditioned around 12 months before the car was scrapped due to rust and body splits (overloaded ex RACV roadside repair van). I kept the box because the guy who sold the van to me reckoned it was working fine but I couldn't test it as he kept the engine.

You can have it for $50 if you want to take the risk - could be a bargain. I'm in the south-eastern suburbs - PM me if you're interested.
dat
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Post by dat »

pm sent

would prefer one running to make sure it doesnt need rebuilding
dat
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Post by dat »

bump
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elky
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Post by elky »

i got 2 here

both were tested before i stripped the car

been sittin for 1 year or so

$50

am goin to melbourne next week if u cant get one i can bring but will need freight money and a deposit

but you should b able to get one locally i reckon
GEM-WRECK 0419021757
dat
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Post by dat »

Id rather one running if possible and will help with removing the heavy mole.
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Poida
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Post by Poida »

I have some on the shelf here that are in good order. You need to specify what model Gemini they are to suit because there are differences. A TF/TG box will not suit a TE for instance. The shifter shaft is on the opposite side of the box from TF onwards. Tell me if your box has the shifter linkage on the driver or passenger side of the car.

Auto boxes don't really suffer from sitting on the shelf for a while. Just run the box as instructed below when you first start it. This procedure is required to ensure the trans fluid is distributed through all passages in the box.

Before you race out for the first time, with the car stationary, select each of the shift options and let the box settle before selecting the next one. Take about 10-15 seconds in each selection before moving on to the next one. Go through all selections and then go to drive. It should load more or less immediately, switch back to reverse and the lag should be minimal into reverse. No big wait.

This procedure ensures the box is fully lubricated before load is applied to dry parts.

If elky has some tested on the shelf, there is no reason they won't do what you need. Elky has sent lots of items out among Gemini people over the years and he is known for his quality.
dat
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Post by dat »

Thank you for your detailed and helpful reply.

I bought a box from another forum that said it was reco 6 months ago by someone they previously bought it from and followed the same instructions after also changing the oil only to find it was slipping all over the place so I took it to a rebuilder and the quotes made me bin the thing and had my heart set on a manual conversion until now where Im just need it back on the road with an auto for my wife.
Im not saying this will happen again its just that if I buy without testing it, but just thought Id take a less risky path if possible. Im willing to try again with a cheapy if at least the seller gives me his word they tried it personally.
The linkages are on the right side or drivers side and if not mistaken its an old Th180 like transmission but thank you for pointing that out as my bellhousing determines this missed fact.
regards, David.
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Poida
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Post by Poida »

The auto used in Gemini is the same basic type as used in most Holden cars of the era. It was used in 4, 6 and V8 cars with alterations to suit each car it was fitted to.

I know if elky says it was a good runner, it will be a good runner. He is not going to sell you a crapper. He'd just scrap it rather than costing shelf space to store it.

It is important to run through that start up procedure to ensure you get proper fluid flow to all sections of the box before you start applying power to it. I used to work at BTR assembling boxes and they get run tested on a dyno before packing and sending off to the plant to be fitted to a car. When we first started them they were 'dry' apart from some sub sections that were partly loaded with trans fluid during tests run to determine sub assemblies were correct before installing into a full box build. The boxes were just run like I stated, each selection is made and run for about 10 seconds to ensure it fills the fluid galleries then after all are run through the box gets a thorough hammering through the drive functions.

Slipping can be caused by lack of fluid, too much fluid, incorrect fluid type or worn clutch packs. The brake band can also be needing adjustment but that is least likely reason and it needs special tools to adjust it correctly. Don't try guessing it. You need an inch-pound tension wrench to get the fine setting correct as well as the right tool for the adjuster screw.

Use Dexron 2D or 3 fluid only. Don't use fluid for other types of box because some contain agents to increase slip and if that fluid has been added you need to flush it and replace with new Dexron type fluid. (Ford TQ type fluid designed for the 85LE or 95LE transmissions will cause slip)

Knowing the side is important because the first series of trimatics up to and including TD were the same model number as the TF and TG ones, only difference is the shaft is made to fit the shifter on the opposite side. TE boxes were the same side as earlier ones but were a different model number. Unfortunately the shaft is one of the early components fitted to the box so swapping one is not an option without pulling the box nearly completely down
dat
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Post by dat »

Only ever used Dexron on the th180 from commonwhores and never had issues with them so figured the same for mine, the one I installed had the correct oil and quantity, the engined warmed up for 5 mins then followed the selection process with at least 20 seconds in each gear and then back through the gears again before drive was selected but it was traumatic and a painful waste of time. Anyway that is history and will contact Elky the post whore :lol: to see what he can do or its maybe too late.
Thank you for your suggestions and hopefully will get this thing back on the road soon.
dat
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Post by dat »

Elky couldnt help me with an auto with r hand side linkages back on the lookout anyone?
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Poida
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Post by Poida »

I have one but I can only go with the description as provided by the person I bought it off. He told me it was reconditioned when he fitted it to his car and it did have a sticker on the door frame of the body shell that indicated a local auto company had fitted it on a date about 7 months prior to my picking it up. I picked it up from him after it was already out of the car but it was still attached to the engine at the time. It has fresh gaskets and it was clean enough to indicate it hadn't long back been installed.

I have had it in storage since I bought it with plans to one day use it as needed.

If you are still looking and this box suits your needs, IM me
dat
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Post by dat »

is the linkages on the right hand side?
regards,d.
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Poida
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Post by Poida »

Yes, it is a TF-TG model auto. It's been stored on a pallet and it's all nice and clean. The only thing you will need off your old box is the external lever that bolts onto the auto selector shaft and the rod going to the T bar shifter attaches to. It ended up being included with the T bar shifter when I sold it.


I would suggest doing the shifting through selections pretty soon after the engine starts. Give it about 15-30 seconds of idling then select reverse, let it run in that selection for about 15 seconds then select drive, second, first each for about 15 seconds always just at engine idle speed. each time you select drive or reverse, let it momentarily pause in neutral for a few seconds before selecting a gear. Don't let it sit idling away for ages before selecting the different gears. Remember, some channels in the valve body will remain 'dry' till you force the valves open by manual selecting. Just give it a run through the selections a couple of times briefly then get it actually driving so it works the box according to the way it is set up to do. Just sitting manually selecting makes sure the box gets a dose of fluid through all the channels. You need to actually drive it in drive to make it change as it should. Be sure to check the fluid level too, cold and hot checks. Too full of trans fluid can also cause slipping because it froths the fluid causing air pockets to form.
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