WTB - Distributor for 2L DOHC Piazza engine (Auckland, NZ)

[blue_devil]

Hi all,

I'm looking for an dizzy for a 2L Piazza engine for a mate whose got one in his '78 Izusu Gemini...

Can't seem to track one down here in NZ and was referred to this site as someone here may be able to help...


Cheers,
Anand

[IZU069]

I suggest converting a Gemini or other Z-series distributor (G161Z, G180Z, G200Z; Rodeo& Jackaroo).

You need the gear from the original DOHC dizzy, and if you want electronic, the rotor and breaker plate (bearing) with pickup and ignitor from a FWD RB series Gemini (but not the late model - that has a different rotor base), plus a 4mm split pin (as in circular expanding tube with one groove), and probably some 0.125mm brass shim or similar.
Check that the DOHC gear uses a 4mm pin; usually the Gemini does. If both 3mm, the a 3mm pin will do. Otherwise if one is 4mm diameter, drill the other out to 4mm.

Cut the Gemini shaft 10mm from the bottom of the collar.
Remove the collar and its split pin (or rivet).
You may have to be careful with the orientation (from memory, the gear has 13 teeth so the rotor angle may be an issue), but fit the original drive gear - preferably with .125 shim to make up for the .4mm diameter difference (one non-overlapping wind), and bash the new split pin through.
DONE!


Fitting the electronics is another story that should(?) be detailed somewhere else hereon, else maybe Poida's twincam site.
If using the RB ignitor with its blue ignition coil (both HIGHLY recommended!), that requires 2 new holes and a groove for the new cable exit. Otherwise external "reluctor" ignitors can be used.

If the electronic conversion is not on this site, then it's about time it was.... (Who? Me!?)


IMO an original DOHC electronic distributor is pointless.
It has the same crap breaker-plate "bearing" that older points dizzies have; the same pathetic horizontal multi-pole pickup coil (& magnet) similar to Nissan N13s, Camiras, etc. The newer pickup is far more robust and easier to replace.
The RB-type ignitor is virtually indestructible unlike the others. (It can fail, but it has current limiting so that low-impedance IgCoils can be used.)


The Z dizzy will not quite have the advance curve of the DOHC, but - especially with age considered - that probably won't matter.
But if that fussy, then an electronic advance kit should be used (eg, Jaycar, else whatever EMS is being run if available).

[IZU069]

A badly late update, but if the OP's G200W is from a Piazza (as opposed to the older 117 version), then it uses the I-TEC ECU with optical dizzy.
Then the RG dizzy is useless. (The RG dizzy being the RB-Gemini guts in a GZ-series distributor for an electronic dizzy maybe without the ignitor for various ECU types, and with a shaft-cut and drive/gear fitment to suit G-U, G-S & G-W engines. IE - it's the universal dizzy for all G-series engines - except the locked optical ITEC dizzy.)

However, the G200W ITEC's optical dizzy guts are the same as the 4ZE1 (2.6L) Trooper/Jackaroo (but NOT the 4ZE1 Rodeo - that has a different connector type and position.)


PS - Poida & I have been discussing the use of heatsink compound when mounting the RB ignitor.
I argue it is NOT necessary because the ignitor is current limiting and (therefore presumably) temperature protected.
And that a good earth to the dizzy body is more important than thermal conductivity.
However, if you use a thermal compound, make sure it is an electrically conducting type - ie, not Arctic Silver 5 nor CPU heatsink paste.